Trofie Wife has a vague memory of dancing around a May Day pole at her fancy suburban nursery school, yet said nursery school did not go forth to inculcate other important information about May 1 pertaining to worker’s rights, Marx, or the Communist Party (that’s what the
When we arrived at the
Martello sourced a delightful old hotel, the Royal Victoria, which is located across from the smelly, mosquito-infested
We spent that Friday afternoon walking around the university quarter, Piazza dei Cavalieri, and Piazza dei Miracoli (otherwise known as Piazza del Duomo, where that sorta famous tower rests). The area around the Duomo was packed with tourists, and the tower looked much cleaner than I remembered it being when I first visited almost 11 years ago to the day. Near nightfall we walked through what must have once been the Jewish quarter and were saddened to see red paint splattered on the synagogue, although, thankfully, the signs in memory of victims of the Holocaust that were scattered on various buildings remained free from desecration.
We spent Saturday in the famed walled city of Lucca, best known on this blog for its ban inside the city walls on any new restaurants serving inauthentic cuisine (more on that in a bit). Bicycles are a big thing in
After returning our bikes, we headed to Duomo San Michele, which we followed up with a visit to San Martino, which features a Last Supper by Tintoretto that depicts a woman nursing a baby (I’m sure Dan Brown would have something to say about that; I couldn’t find anything via Google) as well as an important sculpture of the Holy Face (Volto Santo), which was carried back from the Middle East many centuries ago (sadly, no picture-taking allowed). We missed the last entrance for the Torre Guinigi and Torre delle
Now about that foreign-food ban. Trofie Wife had desperately wanted to chow down on some falafel within the historic walls of
Sunday was devoted to the many sights in the Piazza dei Miracoli. We toured the duomo, baptistery, and hallowed Camposanto (the cemetery). Aided by our Jewish guide to
Martello filmed an awesome video of the acoustic effects in the baptistery, which allow for the appearance of an entire choir singing multiple notes, when in fact just one person is carrying a tune. Listen for yourselves (the video is at the bottom of the page).
Until it was time to head back (on three separate trains), I napped while Martello enjoyed sketching in the grassy piazza, grass in a piazza being a rare thing for Italy, which helps to explain why it is such a popular spot for lounging (with university students all around, playing ball and Frisbee, although signs clearly state that it is forbidden... ah
All in all it was a relaxing weekend for a very hard worker (or two).
Baci e gelato,
Martello e Trofie Wife